Life is a paradox. I really like my job. I just don’t like living where my job is. This is, quite literally, the worst place I’ve ever lived in my whole damned life.
Now if you ask me why I might give you any of a thousand answers. I could talk about the lack of good tex-mex. But this is not intrinsic to the region. If Tapatia, Gringo’s, Arandas, Cha-Cho’s, and Ninfa’s/Navigation each decided to open up a franchise within 50 miles of me, this would solve the tex-mex problem… permanently. But there are other things that can’t be solved because they’re a part of the region. Herewith, two of the biggies:
You can’t get away
Seriously, you’re stuck. In an ENDLESS IN-BETWEEN. There are a few truly urban places in the Northeast. NYC. Philly. Murder City Maryland, and that District place to the south. Everything else is an incessant parade of small towns, villages, boroughs, townships, what have you, shitloads upon shitloads of cape cod houses and some random historic preserved 18th-century barn or tavern or something, that fades out into some semi-rural area with some trailers and a junkyard, which then fades into the next set of haphazard postwar residential mixed with “historic” crap.
When I lived in Houston, I could drive 90 minutes and be on the beach, and not just any beach, but a desolate beach, a beach where I was the only guy for a 1/4 mile in any direction. Most other directions you can go from H-town are even less populated, whether we’re talking about the Piney Woods or that endless flat stuff that lies out past Brookshire. And the other places I’ve lived have been similar. Three directions from Portland, you can drive 45 minutes and it’s all timber company land, just forest after forest after forest. A couple hours west of Tacoma and you’ve got the entire Olympic Peninsula; 90 minutes east and you’re at the top of the Cascade range. It’s easy to get away, commune with nature.
You CAN’T. DO THAT. HERE. And it’s maddening.
The scale is messed up
The second thing is that the urban scale all wrong. It goes from too dense, to too sprawly, with none of that proper in-between. For instance, this is South Philly, a few blocks from Pat’s King of Steaks. This is a genuinely shitty place to live. Forget about what the transit system looks like – you have no front yard, no back yard, not a lot of parks. There isn’t enough parking. The stuff that’s there is subject to such crazy enforcement that they made an entire show out of it. Now I happen to like Philly, at least the quirky abandoned industrial stuff, it’s full of daft locations to shoot art nudes. But I could never, ever live there, because I couldn’t deal with living in the city, and I’d therefore be forced out into…
This, which is the next ring around the big Eastern cities. This is where they take the exact same rowhouses and then set them way back on gigantic boulevards with lots of grass everywhere. Planners thought this was a good idea. Call it proto-projects. Except, it still sucks. None of the green space is yours. You can’t really do anything with it. And where South Philly, which was mostly built out before planners figured out how to screw up development through zoning codes, has tons of retail within walking distance, these were all residential from the start, and local business is few and far between. DC is notorious for this, the District is full of tiny attached homes that are a mile from the nearest corner store. So you’ve got all the urban annoyance of being squished up against your neighbors and not having any space of your own, with all the suburban annoyance of having to drive long distances for every trip. Which means you might as well just move out…
Here. Ye olde two-story garden apartment complex, conveniently located next to major arterial. Spacious. Comfortable. You don’t have to fight your neighbors over a parking spot. Maybe it’s even got updated appliances. Every city in the US has these. Houston has ‘em. I’d argue they’re even more uniquely American than the single-family house. But what do you do when you leave the house?
You spend your entire life in highway sprawl, because those zoned inner-ring ‘burbs have absolutely nothing to offer, and because unless you actually live close to one of these few big cities that have actual “city” parts, it’s a really long drive just to eat dinner. And it’s not just any highway sprawl. It’s bland as hell highway sprawl.
Los Angeles, San Antonio, Houston highway sprawl is interesting. For one thing, there’s a lot of it. There’s so much retail in those sprawly places that it becomes impossible to fill it with chain bullshit, so there’s a lot of independent businesses all over the ‘burban areas. You’re eating Mediterranean cuisine at this hole-in-the-wall on Dairy Ashford, or you’re having kebob in a stripmall that also houses a smokeshop, a lingerie place, and a swimming pool installation biz. Funky. And it comes right up to the highway, buildings and signs and dudes wearing sandwich boards are all right there. Driving Westheimer isn’t the same sort of urban experience as, say, walking 42nd Street in Manhattan, but it still feels urban.
In the East, though, all the highway sprawl went in under strict WASPy development codes, so there’s big setbacks, there’s all this wasted space that kills any visual interest which might previously have existed, and because the commerce is zoning-limited there are proportionally much more chains. You go out for a drive and it looks like this. HOW BORING IS THAT?
What’s missing here is that magical elixir of walkable low-rise.
Like Tacoma’s 6th Avenue. Most of the buildings are one or two stories. Some are built to the street, some are set back aways – there’s a ton of variance in the massing, it creates visual interest. Parking is less than new suburban development, more than old-growth urban cores – it’s fairly easy to find a place, but once you do, it’s easier to just walk from place to place. “Suburban” uses mix with urban ones. From the vantage point in the link above, you’re looking at mostly storefronts that engage the sidewalk, but if you turn it around 180 degrees you’ll see a convenience store with a parking lot. Again, neither here nor there. It’s urban and suburban at the same time.
Here’s Seattle, right around where Compound Records used to be. Now in this shot you’ve got two to four story buildings, all zero-lot line, it could very well be the east coast. But if you pan to the left you’ll see that the starbucks and the dry cleaners are basically suburban, they’re set back a little, with parking lots. It opens up the street, makes things feel more airy. Whereas if you had the same tall buildings on both sides (like it is in East Coast cities), it’d feel much more closed in. Less sunlight. Less places to go if it looks like a pack of teenagers is about to start something.
Albuquerque. You’ve got this awesome adobe architecture, single-family homes mixed with apartments. Walk a block and you’re out on Central, classic midcentury highway strip – it was once Route 66! – some buildings right up on the sidewalk and “engaging the street,” others (turn the camera 180 degrees) like the Walgreens with its big-ol suburbany parking lot.
And I don’t even need to post streetviews of Houston because pretty much the entire inner loop looks exactly like what I’ve just been describing.
It’s not even just a US thing. Japan is full of this stuff. Check out the street in the photo, see the variety of building massing, note how most of the lots are walled off with fences but how the buildings are set back, with landscaping; almost nothing comes up to the sidewalk line. Every dwelling has private, outdoor space. The lots might be 30′ deep but it’s still there. And that’s INSIDE THE YAMANOTE LINE – one of the densest urban areas known to man. Whereas on the East Coast, you can have a 100′ deep lot and still have no place to chill outside.
Why I hate living in the East.
TL;DR – You’ve got a complete lack of Goldilocks urbanity (everything is either claustrophobically boxed-in, or blandly sprawling), and absolutely no way to escape into unspoiled nature. You’re perpetually trapped in shit.